By Joanne Niswander

Greetings from Cairns and Cape Tribulation - located on the tropical northeastern coast of Australia. As we got off the plane that brought us north from Sydney to Cairns, we immediately felt the rise in humidity as well as temperature. We were happy to stay in the shade of the tall palms, eucalyptus and myriad other trees that cover this part of the country.

We rented a car for this section of our journey and soon got used to (almost, that is) driving on "the other side of the road." We had no mishaps, except for someone denting our rear door while backing out of a parking place. That was an inconvenience but not life-shattering.

A two-hour bird watching tour down the Daintree River was a highlight for me. Our very knowledgeable guide gave us glimpses into a world of birds we never would have seen, or identified, if not for him. Our overnight stay at a lovely bed and breakfast that caters to birders was a special treat as well.

We have been impressed with the facilities at most Australian wildlife areas. The trails are very well marked and maintained. Explanatory materials are posted at regular intervals. The absence of litter seemed to indicate that visitors to these sites may be more ecologically aware than in the States (or maybe it's because there aren't any burger franchises right around every corner).

One very special area we visited was the Daintree Rainforest Environmental Center, which has been designated a World Heritage Information Center. Its high-level aerial walkway took us from the forest floor all the way up into the treetops, allowing us to view wildlife at all the various levels of the rainforest.

We were also impressed with the signage that reminds visitors of the fragility of the environment and the need for awareness of endangered species. Road signs warned us of areas where kangaroos or cassowaries or echidnas might be likely to cross. Speaking of road signs, I remember well a billboard that pictured the face of a beautiful girl with blood-red streaks down one side of her face. The caption: "Slow Down, Stupid!"

Not far from the Daintree's lush vegetation and beautiful waterfalls, we drove through an area that gave us a small idea of what the Outback might be like. While driving along, we began to notice that the trees were getting scrubbier, the land drier. We drove past huge termite mounds. Habitations were few and far between. And all of this dry terrain was not far inland from the coastal rain forest.

We knew that what lay behind the mountains (aptly named The Great Dividing Range) would be even drier and less hospitable. What we saw was only a glimpse of what much of Australia is made up of - flat, dry land and wide open spaces far exceeding America's old Wild West. What will the continent be like 50 years from now? Will people continue to push west as the population increases?

We thoroughly enjoyed driving through the scenic Atherton Tablelands (a beautifully green and Switzerland-like farming and dairying area). We stopped to sample farm-produced yoghurts and cheeses. We visited a tea plantation and saw the huge harvesters that go through the fields cutting the top leaves from the many-years-old tea plants.

Then we returned to the coastline and the tropics, with fields of sugar cane in all stages of growth from seedlings to harvested cane. We got ourselves situated into another welcoming vacation home near Mission Beach, about the closest area to the Great Barrier Reef. This was the time on our travel schedule when my daughter and family anticipated a boat trip out to the Reef for a couple of days filled with scuba diving and snorkeling.

But weather was definitely not in our favor. The seas were rough and boats were not going out. In fact, we had two days of experiencing the "wet season" - rain coming down in buckets, the swimming pool overflowing, water everywhere. Actually, October is not supposed to be part of the Australian tropical wet season. Heavy rains are generally not expected until the turn of the year. So much for official projections!

We have come to realize that Australia is a place of real contrasts, and that we have experienced only a tiny bit of what this country Down Under has to offer. If we had another month (and a lot more money) it would be great to check out the interior as well as the coast.

But it's time to head back home to the States. I'll be seeing you around town soon.